Detailed

We only use plywood for the carcase of our cabinets.Compared with other engneered wood material like: MIDDLE DENSITY FIBRE BOARD" "PARTICLE BOARD", we prefer plywood.

First, plywood is strong enough, except for those glue there is all wood material, like poplar, willow. They are planed into thin layers, these layers are laid cross by each other, to balance the stress and also enhance the strength. So there is no problem to screw in at the same point on plywood. Good capability to tighten screws.

Second, nice looking, you have various choices for the top and bottom veneer, maple, birch, cherry, oak, no problem. All these wood veneers are natural,turely wood grain, not print wood pattern.

Plywood,Our Choice

Plywood that looks nice, in a spice such as cherry, oak, or walnut, is graded and priced mainly on the quality and thickness of the face veneer. Plywood include: Hardwood plywood, mainly for structure material. Softwood plywood.

In a cabinet door, for example, you want the best appearance possible on the outside, on the inside, you still want it to look good, but small area of burl, mineral streaks or sapwood won’t be the distractions that they would be on a surface that is always exposed.

Grade for hardwood plywood, face: A is the best grade, then B, C, D is the worst grade. Back:1 is the best grade, then 2,3, 4 is the worst grade.





Core material: the inside story. With softwood plywood, any material that's composed of different layers of wood with the layers at 90 degrees to each other is called plywood.With hardwood plywood, any material can be between the face and back veneers and still be called plywood. The core material is specified separately from the face, so you can have a maple plywood, with a veneer core or with a particle board or medium-density fiberboard core. The thickness of veneer-core plywood are much thicker than ture veneer, in 3/4" thick material, the thickness of the core layers can range from about 1/8" on seven-ply material (five core layers plus two face veneer) to less than 1/16" in 13 ply material.

Key points to consider when examing plywood

Firstly, there is plywood's face veneer, if it is to be exposed, the grain should be look like several pieces of solid wood, 6" to 8" wide. Every other piece should be a mirror image of the next one. This is book matched plain-sliced veneer. If grain pattern is wild, with wide area of light and dark, it is rotary cut veneer, expect to pay a premium for a plain-sliced book matched veneer. Good veneer can easily double the price of a sheet of plywood.

Second, is the overall flatness of the sheet, despite it's reputation for flatness, plywood sheets will usually have some degree of bow, but this should be a minimal.Pull a sheet off the stack and sight down a long edge, if the sheet is badly warped or twisted, this is likely a problem in core layers and conditions won't improve as the sheet is cut up.

Third thing is the edge, more plies are better, and hardwood plies are better than softwood, look at the joints between the layers, these should be smooth and straight lines, and the grain should be even and close. If there are voids, checks or knots on the edges, you can be sure that there will be many more within the sheet, also take a close sight to the edge of the face veneer to see how thick it is , if it is hard to detect the thickness of the veneer, it is too thin and you will likely to have trouble sanding through and finishing, and will telegraph any unevenness of the core layers to the finish surface.



 

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